Techniques demonstrated at previous gatherings:

	Sculptural Flowers Make a base bead and shape into a barrel. Place the barrel bead into a kiln to keep warm. Make a small white disc (flattened with mashers). With tweezers or the sharp end of another glass rod, pull on the white disc to make it petal-shaped. Burn the "petal" off the rod. Make 5-6 petals. Heat the tip of a green rod to make the stem of your flower. Using tweezers, arrange the petals around the tip of the green rod. With a yellow rod, punty up to the inside of the flower. The yellow will serve as the centre of your flower. Burn the green rod off. Retrieve the barrel from the kiln and spot heat the barrel where you want to place the flower. Spot heat the back of the flower and attach to the barrel. Use the white rod to pull and reshape the petals, if needed. Joanne Andrighetti
	Die Cut Silver Foil. Pick up on Bead and Encase. Joanne Andrighetti
	Copper-silver bead Make a base bead out of white and sprinkle a small amount of enamel powder on the white bead and melt the enamel in until the bead is shiny. Cover the bead with copper leaf and burn it in entirely until it looks speckled. Next decorate the bead with ivory stringer, just a small amount and melt it in. Now roll bead in silver foil-don't worry if the entire bead is not covered and burn it in. Lynne Chappell
	Silver Foil Bicone Pull stringers in transparent teal, copper green, mosaic green, make a base bead out of white and shape into a bicone. Wrap silver foil around the bead in a random fashion, and burnish the silver foil well. Don't melt in the silver yet and decorate the bead using your copper green stringer, drawing over and off the silver foil. Repeat with the teal stringer being careful not to burn off too much of the silver. Use the mosaic green to decorate the bead with dots. Now melt everything in. You may have to reshape into bicone.  Ania Kyte
Pea pods and Strawberries by Tamara Garland.	Aquarium bead demonstrated by Shelley Poole.
"Michael Barley" bead: Wrap a Cobalt Blue core bead. Cover in silver leaf, burnish, and burn in. Cover with tiny dots of Rubino Oro, or small spirals of Rubino stringer, melt in.Case with clear or a transparent light blue. This also makes an interesting effect with an Electric Yellow base bead. Rose Momsen	Milli Flower Bead: Wrap a Transparent Turquoise base. Warm up Millis (either on a hot plate, kiln top, or with tweezers in the flame). Heat up side of bead and attach Milli, then re-heat Milli and lightly squish flat, straight down to press Milli into bead. This seems to help Millis stay attached. Repeat process around bead. Melt Clear dots onto each Milli, and squish down again, being careful that you don't smear the Millis when you squish. Then melt bead into final shape, being careful to not get the core too hot. Susan Mellor
	Fine Silver Wire Bead: Base bead of light ivory. Wind fine silver wire in a random pattern onto the base bead. Renata uses a wet cloth to anchor the wire on the mandrel and also because the mandrel is HOT!! Melt the wire. The silver melts either into tiny balls (when bead is held in the flame longer) or breaks up into fine strands (when the bead is flashed through the flame). Good ventilation is recommended for this. Renata Crowe
Face Cane by Melanie Rowe Lips, nose and eye cane made first, reheated in the kiln and applied to the face cane. Above, she is applying the eyebrows. After the hair is added, she pulls out the cane. To the right is a bead using the cane.
	Hollow Tube Beads by Ikuyo Yamanaka Start with a gather of glass and then wrap it onto the end of a pyrex hollow tube. Blow into the pyrex tube while continually turning the tube and gather. When the "bubble" is as large as you want, let it cool slightly while you punty up to the other end. Heat the bead and pull it gently as you would stringer. Ikuyo lets it sag a little in the middle to give the new tube a slight curve. Let the bead cool slightly and burn off the punty end. Heat this end up and then blow hard through the pyrex tube to make a hole and punty up to the side of the hole you just made. Tap the bead close to the pyrex tube in order to snap this end off and then clean up the edges of your new bead.
	Dogs by Rafael Navarro Leiton He made a wonderful dog head for us. A lot of patience and skill goes into making these dogs and the detail and sense of humour in the dogs' expressions is incredible.
Brian showed us the basic rod implosion method with borosilicate tube. Melt blob. Flatten blob. Decorate flattened bottom. Melt in. Flatten again. Melt more. Flatten again. ........this is the implosion part - the more flattening the more imploding . Then punty off on bottom, remove from original rod. Draw out glass to make loop and curl around. Fire polish punty spot. Easy!!! But you really had to be there.
	Japanese Satake Glass by Sherry Bellamy Sherry starts by pulling some twisty cane from a white rod sandwiched between two rods of clear. Satake glass stays soft for a longer time than Moretti, so that Sherry can still pull the cane with the rods out of the flame. She makes a base bead with three colours and marvers the base bead into a cone shape. Now the magic part as she winds the twistie around the bead, and the white/clear feathers out. This glass melts at a very low temperature, and stays soft for a long time, so new techniques need to be learned to handle it.
Cupcakes by Holly Cruise Wind a thick cylinder of white, extending it past the end of the mandrel. Marver it into a slight cone shape. Next, using a tungsten pick, make longitudinal dents around the whole bead. Now add a blob of brown to the top to simulate chocolate icing. Next squish the brown glass down into a thick disc with a marver. Repeat using a blue rod but do not marver down. Using a pick, rake the edges down. Now heat the top of the blue gather and with tweezers, grasp the middle and twist the glass to form a swirl on top. Add coloured dots and voila - looks good enough to eat!